Fortunately, there is a relatively easy way to fix these
problems. With so many rotten frames (4 of 8), the hull is really
quite flexible. By attaching a single, solid plank along the entire
length of the gunnels (17'), I was able to pull the walls of the boat "into
fair" (see photo). Once that was accomplished, it was also pretty
easy to twist the boat back into its original shape. Adjusting the
cross-braces that I'd installed in the summer of 2006 allowed me to secure
the hull in the newly-faired shape.
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| View of the faired hull from the stern. Green arrows indicate plank used to pull the hull into fair. The string in the center of the photo was used to judge alignment. |
The next step is to systematically remove and replace
the frames. As you can see, there is a small amout of deadrise, or
vee, to the hull (see photo). I have been able to use the rotten
frames as templates to make the replacement frames (using white oak amidships,
where most of the stresses from the mast and lee-boards will be, and douglas
fir everywhere else).
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| View of (upside down) hull frame, showing deadrise of ~4-5 degrees. | View of original fir hull frame (on right) being used as a template for shaping the white oak replacement (on left). |
In addition to using the rotten frames as templates, I
also have been making extensive use of my grandpa's carpenter's bevel to
ensure that the frames are symmetrical (which would not necessarily have
been the case using only the original pieces.....)
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| Carpenter's Bevel on the port upright of
Frame No. 3. |
Carpenter's Bevel on the starboard upright of
Frame No. 3. |
With enough of the frames replaced to hold hull planks
securely, it's time to move on to planking!